Tuesday, June 29, 2004

good to be back in ecuador




Hey everyone! Despite the fact that Ecuadorian Immigration almost didn´t let me into the country b/c they didn´t have a record of me actually leaving the country last time i was here 4 years ago, everything else has been smooth travels. The children at the organization I am visiting (and used to work for back then) threw a "Fiesta para Linda" and they presented me with songs and dance, and we played a bunch of games as well. One contest in particular amused the crap out of me. When one of the educators announced that we would now commence the "Baile de Limon", the kids hurriedly grabbed a partner. Girls grabbed their girlfriends and the boys grabbed their buddies. Each pair then proceeded to grab a lime. They subsequently put the lime on their foreheads and pressed each other hard so as to not let the lime fall without the use of their hands. The objective is to be the last pair dancing with lime intact in between each others faces. Of course, a few kids cheated and they were immediately thrown out. The rest followed the rules and were concentrating really hard, too hard. Soon the dancefloor transformed into something that appeared to be a makeout session of homosexual elementary kids. It wasn´t though, of course . As song after song ended, I was beginning to become impressed with the will and concentration of some of these kids. One particular pair of girls caught my attention. After about the 3rd song, I noticed that the girls had let their lime fall to both their eye sockets. Ít´s inevitable that the lime will slide down the face a bit, but to have the lime pressed against the eye is definitely the worst. So imagine, you´ve got this lime pressed real hard against your eye and you´ve got to dance, i mean MOVE your entire body to the beat of the music, or you LOSE. These girls´ lime had burst a little from pressing their faces so hard together, and the acid from the lemon juice started to make them cry. Yet, their conviction to stay in the contest made them hold each other more firmly, and they continued to dance through the duration of a couple more songs. At this point, I´m laughing my ass off watching the other kids, yet I´m starting to get concerned about the potential danger of pure lime juice seething in one´s eyes. I mean, if you can toss some raw fish in lime juice and called this "cooked" (this is how you make Ceviche)....Well, the contest finally ended and the girls only came in third, and they didn´t get that prize they worked so hard for - a tennis ball. However, they didn´t lose their spirits and we all had a ball till the party ended.
Well, other than hanging out with the organization and my friends, I´ve been enjoying the leisurely pace of a traveler without an agenda, and remembering the days when I used to live here, feeling nostalgic for times past. At the same time, it saddens me about the economy and how the poor and middle class had to bear the brunt of the bank scandals and dollarization of the economy. As a result, the middle class here is disappearing and there is more crime on the streets than before. It's a sad reality that everyone accepts. Just last night, coming back from dinner at my friends house, there was a guy, who was assaulted. He lay bleeding in the middle of the street with a crowd gathered around him. Blood was staining the pavement and from what I could see, it was coming from his head...however, a couple of kids didn't seem alarmed at all. In fact, some girls started giggling and pointing at the victim. Cars drove by and nobody stopped to help. I've learned to listen to people's opinions and perceptions with a grain of salt, however. Some will claim the complete opposite here- that dollarization needed to happen, and now, people actually have credit and can take out loans, unlike before. That now, there's no prostitution on the streets. That now, there are nice public buses manufactured by mercedes benz that guarantee you're never late for anything (i do miss the kitschy old rickety buses with dashboards filled with La Virgen paraphenalia).... As my spanish improves at an exponential rate, i'm forgetting some very basic english...which kind of scares me. Like not remembering how to spell 'confortable(?)', comfortable(?)... hasta luego mis amigos, linda

Sunday, March 30, 2003

italia…day 10…

one of the best meals ever: Osteria Nonna Gina.
-Antipasti: Lardo di colonnata (whole pig fat cured w/spices in marble vat). W/Tuscan bread and semi-aged pecorino! Unique, sumptuous, excellent.
-Main: Gnocchi alla Lella, cooked in the house special sauce. And let me tell you, it was special! Dumplings were filled w/a variety of cheeses, perhaps a gorgonzola type and a ricotta. The sauce actually evoked memories of childhood far far away, but I couldn’t figure out where or what. It had a creamy-like béchamel consistency w/some kind of nut, pistachio.
-Side: Boiled fresh fava beans flavored w/pancetta.
Theresa had the dry spaghetti. Apparently, there are certain pastas you eat dry, and others wet (fresh, home-made. E.g. Tagliatelle and Pici).
Lella was the cook (mom) and Dado was the dad! Apparently, I must have put the charm on Dado b/c he kept coming back to our table, which is unusual, according to Theresa. He complimented us w/Amaretto and grappa to have w/our macchiatos. On our way out, we chatted w/Lella, who wanted to set us up w/the kitchen help and kept asking how old I was. She also invited me to learn in her kitchen if I stayed! Dammit, why do I have to go back to work? Riecine also invited us to help w/the harvest and bottle in the fall, if we were still around. I will need to come back to Tuscany b/c there were not enough days here to eat everything. Instead, I will pathetically sneak back into the states about 6 bottles of wine, some wild boar salami, and a big head of unpasteurized pecorino to try to re-live my trip.

Saturday, March 29, 2003

italia...day 9...


I’m in Siena, sitting in the shell-shaped something or other right in the middle of the town, where supposedly in the spring they let the horses run through for some festivities. Visited Il Duomo cathedral (molto gothic, built in the 12th C, where I’ve never seen so much in-laid marble. Most of the art was done by Pisarro and Donatello. Thea’s gone and am here by myself, meeting up w/another friend of a friend for dinner. However, for lunch, I had the most pleasant experience. I went to Trattoria Papei, their menu being a bit more extended than other home style restaurants. They had things like Zuppa du Cippola and wet pastas like Papardelle al Cinghiale. Dang, if I were a guy, I could eat so much more of the food here, what a bummer. Anyway, I got the Crostini de pate fegatini di pollo (chicken liver pate on toasted bread) and Fettini di Vitello (grilled slices of veal) w/a side of Carciofi al cartoccio (baked artichokes). Another excellent meal. I was about to ask for the bill, when my waiter brought over a glass of Vin Santo and a single Cantucci (what Americans call Biscotti, very dry dense almond cookie. In fact, biscotti here just means cookie). I think I had just discovered one of life’s most pleasant combinations, especially after a meal! Like rice and kimchee. My waiter pointed to 2 older gentlemen sitting at a table nearby who had so kindly ordered the dessert! How Italian and sweet! I went over to their table and greeted them w/a hearty kiss, a grazie and a arrivederci!

Wednesday, March 26, 2003

italia day 7


…day 7…today the food was the winner. At Badia a Coltibuono, an old abbey that still produces its own wine. We had the Tortino di Polento con Bacala mantecato al aglio e Cappera fritti (polenta pie w/whisked salted cod topped w/fried capers). The fried capers tasted like Korean seaweed. It was seasoned w/fresh rosemary and this dish was divine, just like the abbey. For the main course, I ordered the Farinata di mais ecastagne con verdure saltalte e pancetta coccante (Chestnut porridge w/steamed vegetables w/crunchy fried pancetta). I had that w/their 98 reserve chianti. YUM! Afterwards, we drove to a very small vineyard called Riecine where the sommelier, Alessandra, gave us a personal tour and chatted w/us for about 2 hours, giving us a firm lesson about Chianti. Basically, you’ve the DOC and the DOCG, the Consortio de Gallo Nero winemakers and it has nothing to do w/standards of taste. To be considered a Chianti Classico, you must follow certain Chianti-making procedures denoted by the DOC. If you don’t and there are many wines that don’t, it doesn’t necessarily mean it’s not good. Chiantis are made w/at least 85% Sangiovese and either Canolo Nero or Merlot. If they’re made w/anything else, then it’s a Super Tuscan, highly desired despite their non-classification status. At Riecine, I bought the 2000 CC (which needed a few years aging) and a Super Tuscan called La Goia (full-bodied and woody b/d they used new oak barrels rather the Chianti-standard old barrels. These are 100% Sangiovese, even though the standard minimum is 85%. She said the best years for Chiantis are 95 and 97. 98 was a bad year for several producers. We are now at a bar that serves 40 kinds of sandwiches, we’ve eaten cookies from Pasticeria Bini, recommended by my friend who used to live here a few years ago. Tomorrow – Montalcino!

Tuesday, March 25, 2003

italia…day ?...

made it to Tuscany w/no problemo…despite the scant 3 hours of sleep. The house party we went to last night kept us up till 5 am and it was well worth it. the boys we met the night before threw an awesome party – great food, drinks, and people. I complimented marco, the host, on the jamon Serrano. I chowed down a much needed few slices after some whisky…so, Italian men are very touchy. I had about 3 guys come up and kiss my neck and 1 guy kiss me smack on the lips w/no warning. They even touch each other as a brotherly kind of greeting/affection.

"photo! photo! photo!"
“facciamo el sexo!”
“hi! let’s go gangbang!”
those were some memorable quotes from the party. Great party, marco did not get any action from me, but I believe Gary Indiana did from Thea…

Saturday, March 22, 2003

italia…day 3…


we did it. la maratona della citta di Roma. Time 4 hours 33 minutes, baby. What I was totally aiming for. Thanks to the power trio – Thea (left), Mega (right), and me. And after our bath and 3 hours of fashion TV in our hotel room, we headed out to a bar, where we met some boys who invited us to their “Sinatra” theme party…Me affato pudiere conosherti! = pleased to meet you, that’s what I learned tonight. But back to the race…I totally cried when I crossed the finish line. I had no idea I was going to be that emotional…tomorrow, we’re playing things by ear, take it easy, maybe do a little shopping, eat some decent food (b/c that is something that has not been happening in this hotel) I can’t waste more days here eating crap like this. Did I mention all the boobs we watched popping out of the runway models’ outfits on fashion TV? And Thea’s rendition of it? I can’t decide which was funnier…

Thursday, March 20, 2003

italia!

...day 1...today I leave for Rome and yesterday the Iraq war started…

…day 2…figured out how to take the bus to the Cappucin Museum. No, we didn’t stare at a bunch of coffee; rather we looked at piles of skulls. Yes, it was apparently OK to bury priests and monks inside churches, and so there lie inside the museum the bones of 4000 friars, ornately and tediously placed among 6 rooms (altars). 1 room had like the entire wall full of skulls, the chandeliers made of arm bones and vertebrae. There were some princes and princesses buried there as well. One of the popes had ordained it ‘plenary indulgence’ or some term I can’t quite remember and you automatically become holy yourself if you visit on the first day of October….