italia day 7

…day 7…today the food was the winner. At Badia a Coltibuono, an old abbey that still produces its own wine. We had the Tortino di Polento con Bacala mantecato al aglio e Cappera fritti (polenta pie w/whisked salted cod topped w/fried capers). The fried capers tasted like Korean seaweed. It was seasoned w/fresh rosemary and this dish was divine, just like the abbey. For the main course, I ordered the Farinata di mais ecastagne con verdure saltalte e pancetta coccante (Chestnut porridge w/steamed vegetables w/crunchy fried pancetta). I had that w/their 98 reserve chianti. YUM! Afterwards, we drove to a very small vineyard called Riecine where the sommelier, Alessandra, gave us a personal tour and chatted w/us for about 2 hours, giving us a firm lesson about Chianti. Basically, you’ve the DOC and the DOCG, the Consortio de Gallo Nero winemakers and it has nothing to do w/standards of taste. To be considered a Chianti Classico, you must follow certain Chianti-making procedures denoted by the DOC. If you don’t and there are many wines that don’t, it doesn’t necessarily mean it’s not good. Chiantis are made w/at least 85% Sangiovese and either Canolo Nero or Merlot. If they’re made w/anything else, then it’s a Super Tuscan, highly desired despite their non-classification status. At Riecine, I bought the 2000 CC (which needed a few years aging) and a Super Tuscan called La Goia (full-bodied and woody b/d they used new oak barrels rather the Chianti-standard old barrels. These are 100% Sangiovese, even though the standard minimum is 85%. She said the best years for Chiantis are 95 and 97. 98 was a bad year for several producers. We are now at a bar that serves 40 kinds of sandwiches, we’ve eaten cookies from Pasticeria Bini, recommended by my friend who used to live here a few years ago. Tomorrow – Montalcino!